How much does vinyl plank flooring cost?

Material only: budget LVP: $1.50-$3/sq ft. Mid-range: $3-$5/sq ft. Premium: $5-$7/sq ft. Professional installation adds $2-$5/sq ft. Total installed: $4-$10/sq ft. Average room (200 sq ft): DIY: $600-$1,400. Professional: $1,000-$2,000. Compared to hardwood ($8-$15/sq ft installed) and tile ($6-$15/sq ft installed), LVP is significantly more affordable while offering waterproof performance and realistic appearance. Best value: mid-range LVP ($3-$5/sq ft) with SPC or WPC core. This offers excellent durability, realistic looks, and waterproof performance.

Is vinyl plank flooring waterproof?

Yes. LVP with SPC or WPC core is 100% waterproof. Water will not damage the planks, even if standing water is left on the surface. However: water can seep through the seams (click-lock joints) and get under the flooring if standing water is left for extended periods. This does not damage the vinyl but can cause mold on the subfloor. Best practices: wipe up spills promptly, do not allow standing water, and use waterproof underlayment in moisture-prone areas. LVP is excellent for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, and basements where moisture resistance is important.

How long does vinyl plank flooring last?

Budget LVP: 10-15 years. Mid-range LVP: 15-20 years. Premium LVP: 20-25+ years. Factors: wear layer thickness (the most important factor — thicker wear layer = longer life): 6-12 mil (budget): light residential. 12-20 mil (mid-range): general residential. 20-28 mil (premium): heavy residential. 28+ mil (commercial): commercial and heavy traffic. Also matters: quality of the UV coating, care and maintenance, and whether furniture pads are used. Compared to hardwood (50-100 years with refinishing), vinyl has a shorter total lifespan, but it cannot be refinished — when the wear layer is worn through, the floor must be replaced.

Can vinyl plank flooring go over existing flooring?

Yes, in most cases. LVP can be installed over: existing vinyl, tile (if flat and well-adhered), hardwood (if flat), and concrete. Requirements: the existing floor must be flat (within 3/16 inch over 10 feet), clean, and securely attached. Grout lines in tile must not be too deep (can telegraph through thin vinyl). Do not install over: carpet (too soft), floating floors (two floating floors will bounce), or damaged/uneven subfloors. Important: installing over existing flooring raises the floor height (4-8mm). Check that doors clear and transitions to adjacent rooms work.

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Flooring

Vinyl Flooring Guide: Types, Installation & Cost

Lumberama Editorial Team, Vinyl Flooring & Installation Specialists Sep 2, 2026 12 min read

Types of Vinyl Flooring

Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP): The most popular option. Designed to look like hardwood with realistic wood-grain textures and patterns. Click-lock installation (floats over the subfloor). Thickness: 4-8mm. Pros: waterproof, durable, realistic appearance, comfortable underfoot, and easy to install. Cost: $2-$7/sq ft.

Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT): Same construction as LVP but designed to look like stone or ceramic tile. Click-lock or glue-down installation. Pros: realistic stone appearance without the weight, cost, or cold feel of real stone. Cost: $2-$8/sq ft.

Sheet vinyl: Comes in large rolls (6 or 12 feet wide). Glued or loose-lay installation. Pros: seamless (fewer places for water to penetrate), very affordable, and fully waterproof. Cons: less realistic appearance, harder to install (large sheets are unwieldy), and difficult to repair (must replace the entire section). Cost: $0.50-$3/sq ft.

Peel-and-stick vinyl tile: Self-adhesive tiles. Pros: extremely easy to install, cheapest option, and easy to replace individual tiles. Cons: least durable, adhesive can fail over time, and least realistic appearance. Cost: $0.50-$2/sq ft.

Core Types

LVP and LVT come with different core constructions:

SPC (Stone Plastic Composite): A rigid core made of limestone and PVC. Very dense and rigid. Pros: handles subfloor imperfections better, more dent-resistant, and completely waterproof. Cons: harder underfoot (less comfortable), heavier, and transmits more sound. Best for: commercial spaces, basements, and anywhere you need maximum durability.

WPC (Wood Plastic Composite): A core made of wood powder and PVC. Less dense than SPC. Pros: warmer and softer underfoot, better sound absorption, and built-in underlayment on many products. Cons: slightly less dent-resistant than SPC, and slightly more expensive. Best for: living spaces, bedrooms, and anywhere comfort is a priority.

Installation

Click-lock (floating): The most common method for LVP/LVT. Planks or tiles click together and float over the subfloor. No glue or nails. Pros: easy DIY, fast installation, and can go over most existing floors. Requirements: flat subfloor (within 3/16 inch over 10 feet), underlayment (unless built-in), and expansion gaps at walls (1/4 inch).

Glue-down: Each plank or tile is glued to the subfloor with adhesive. Pros: more stable (no movement), better for large rooms, and thinner profile. Cons: more labor-intensive, harder to remove, and requires very flat subfloor.

Loose-lay: Heavy-backed planks are laid without clicking or gluing. They stay in place by weight and friction. Pros: easiest installation, easy to replace individual planks. Cons: limited product options and may shift in some conditions.