What is the best landscape edging material?

Steel edging is the professional choice for the sharpest, most durable borders (20-30+ year lifespan). Natural stone offers the most beautiful, timeless look. Brick suits traditional homes. For budget projects, concrete pavers offer good value. Avoid cheap plastic roll edging — it looks bad and doesn't last.

How much does landscape edging cost?

Budget plastic: $0.25-$1/ft. Wood timber: $1-$6/ft. Steel: $3-$6/ft (materials). Brick: $3-$8/ft. Natural stone: $5-$15/ft. Poured concrete curbing: $5-$15/ft installed. A 100-foot garden border costs $25-$1,500 depending on material.

Can I install landscape edging myself?

Yes, most types are DIY-friendly. Steel and aluminum edging, brick, concrete pavers, and wood timbers can all be installed with basic tools (shovel, rubber mallet, level). Natural stone is heavier and more labor-intensive. Poured concrete curbing requires a professional with a curbing machine.

How deep should landscape edging be buried?

Most edging should be buried 3-4 inches deep with 1-2 inches above ground. Steel edging is typically set with 2-3 inches above grade. Stone and brick borders are set on a 2-inch gravel base with 2-4 inches above ground. The goal is enough depth for stability but enough height to contain mulch and prevent grass invasion.

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Landscape Edging Ideas: Materials, Installation & Costs

Lumberama Editorial Team, Landscaping & Garden Design Specialists Jun 10, 2026 14 min read

Why Landscape Edging Matters

Landscape edging creates clean, defined borders between different areas of your yard — lawn and garden beds, walkways and planting areas, mulched beds and gravel paths. Without edging, grass invades garden beds, mulch migrates onto the lawn, and the clean lines of your landscape design blur within a single growing season. Good edging also reduces maintenance by containing mulch, gravel, and soil within their designated areas.

Metal Edging

Steel Edging

Steel landscape edging is the professional landscaper's choice and the gold standard for clean, crisp, permanent borders. Thin strips of steel (typically 14-gauge, 4–6 inches tall) are driven into the ground along the edge of garden beds, creating razor-sharp lines that last for decades.

Pros: Sharpest, cleanest lines. Extremely durable (20–30+ years). Bends to follow any curve. Nearly invisible once installed. Professional appearance.

Cons: More expensive than plastic. Develops a rust patina over time (Cor-ten steel) or requires powder coating. Edges can be sharp — be careful barefoot.

Cost: $3–$6 per linear foot for materials. $5–$10/ft installed.

Brands: Coyote Landscape Products, Col-Met, Kinsman.

Aluminum Edging

Similar to steel but lighter, rust-proof, and available in more colors. Aluminum edging won't develop a rust patina, making it ideal for formal landscapes where a clean, consistent appearance matters. Slightly more flexible than steel, which makes it easier to form tight curves.

Cost: $4–$8 per linear foot for materials.

Natural Stone Edging

Natural stone creates a timeless, organic border that complements any landscape style. Options include: fieldstone (irregular, natural shapes), flagstone (flat, cut pieces), cobblestone (rounded or cut blocks), and limestone or granite blocks (uniform, cut pieces).

Installation: Dig a shallow trench along the border, level the base with compacted gravel or sand, and set the stones tightly together. Use landscape adhesive between stones for permanence, or dry-stack for a more natural, adjustable look.

Pros: Beautiful natural appearance, extremely durable, adds property value, suits every landscape style.

Cons: Heavy and labor-intensive to install, most expensive option, may shift over time if not set in mortar, uneven surfaces.

Cost: $5–$15 per linear foot for materials. $10–$25/ft installed.

Brick Edging

Classic brick edging has been used in gardens for centuries. Bricks can be set vertically (soldier course), angled at 45 degrees (sawtooth pattern), or laid flat in a row. Brick edging complements traditional, colonial, and cottage-style homes beautifully.

Installation: Dig a trench slightly wider than the bricks and 4–6 inches deep. Add 2 inches of compacted gravel base. Set bricks in your chosen pattern on a thin layer of sand. Fill gaps with sand (polymeric sand prevents washout).

Cost: $3–$8 per linear foot for materials. $6–$15/ft installed.

Concrete Edging

Poured concrete (curbing): Continuous poured concrete borders shaped on-site with a curbing machine. Creates a smooth, seamless border in any shape. Available in colors, stamps, and textures. Very permanent but can crack with freeze-thaw cycles.

Cost: $5–$15 per linear foot installed (by a curbing contractor).

Concrete pavers: Precast concrete blocks designed for landscape borders. Available in many shapes, sizes, and colors including tumbled, weathered, and modern styles. Easy DIY installation.

Cost: $2–$6 per linear foot for materials.

Wood Edging

Pressure-treated timber: 4x4 or 6x6 landscape timbers staked into the ground. Affordable, easy to install, and creates straight, geometric borders. Lifespan: 10–15 years before the treated wood begins to deteriorate.

Cedar/redwood: Naturally rot-resistant woods that weather to a silver-gray patina. More attractive than pressure-treated but more expensive and still has a limited lifespan (8–15 years depending on ground contact).

Cost: Pressure-treated: $1–$3/ft. Cedar: $3–$6/ft.

Plastic and Composite Edging

Black plastic roll edging: The most affordable option. Thin plastic strips (typically 4–6 inches tall) partially buried in the ground. Quick to install but tends to heave out of the ground, crack in cold weather, and look cheap. Not recommended for visible areas.

Cost: $0.25–$1.00 per linear foot.

Composite/recycled edging: Higher-quality plastic or composite edging made from recycled materials. More durable and attractive than basic plastic. Brands like EasyFlex and Dimex offer products that look like stone or metal.

Cost: $1–$3 per linear foot.

Installation Tips

Mark your border line with a garden hose (for curves) or string line (for straight edges) before digging. Dig a trench 1–2 inches deeper than the edging material to allow for a compacted gravel base. Use a level to ensure consistent height. For metal edging, use a rubber mallet to drive stakes. Backfill against the edging on both sides and compact the soil firmly.