How do I fix standing water in my yard?

Identify the cause: is the area a low spot (add soil to re-grade), is the soil compacted clay (aerate and amend), or is there no outlet for runoff (install a French drain to a discharge point or dry well)? For small areas: re-grading or a simple catch basin with buried pipe. For large areas or persistent problems: a French drain system with a discharge point. Start with the simplest solution (grading, downspout extensions) before installing a drainage system.

How much does a French drain cost?

DIY: $10-$15 per linear foot (gravel, pipe, filter fabric). Professional: $25-$50 per linear foot. A typical 75-foot French drain: $750-$1,125 DIY, $1,875-$3,750 professional. The cost depends on: length, depth, soil conditions (rocky soil costs more), and whether you need a dry well or other discharge point. DIY French drains are straightforward but labor-intensive (digging the trench is the hardest part).

How do I keep water away from my foundation?

Three things: (1) Grade the soil away from the foundation (6 inches of drop in the first 10 feet). (2) Extend gutter downspouts at least 4-10 feet from the foundation. (3) If needed, install a French drain along the foundation footing to intercept subsurface water. These three steps solve 90%+ of foundation water problems. Grading and downspout extensions are the cheapest and most impactful — start there before installing a French drain.

What is the difference between a French drain and a trench drain?

A French drain: a buried perforated pipe in a gravel-filled trench. Collects subsurface water (water that seeps through the soil). Invisible from the surface (covered with gravel and/or topsoil). Used for yard drainage and foundation drainage. A trench drain (channel drain): a surface-level trough with a grate. Collects surface water (runoff flowing across a surface). Visible (the grate is at ground level). Used for driveways, patios, pool decks, and areas where surface water flows.

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Outdoor Living

Landscape Drainage Solutions: French Drains, Grading & Dry Wells

Lumberama Editorial Team, Landscape Drainage & Grading Specialists Jun 11, 2026 13 min read

Why Drainage Matters

Poor yard drainage causes: foundation damage (water pooling against the foundation is the #1 cause of basement leaks and foundation movement), mosquito breeding (standing water), lawn disease and dead grass, unusable outdoor spaces, soil erosion, and damage to hardscaping (patios, walkways, retaining walls). Fixing drainage problems is not optional — left unaddressed, they cause thousands of dollars in structural damage. The good news: most residential drainage problems have straightforward, DIY-able solutions.

Identifying the Problem

After a rain, observe: where does water collect? Where does it flow? Common problems:

water pooling against the foundation (grade slopes toward the house instead of away).

Standing water in the yard (low spots, clay soil, or no outlet for runoff).

Soggy areas that never dry (high water table or underground springs).

Gutter downspout erosion (concentrated flow creates channels).

Water crossing neighbor’s property onto yours (may require a swale or berm to intercept).

Grading (Surface Drainage)

The simplest and most effective solution for foundation drainage. The grade should slope away from the house: minimum 6 inches of drop in the first 10 feet. This is a 5% slope. For most homes: add topsoil against the foundation and taper it away. Cost: $500-$2,000 (DIY) to $1,000-$5,000 (professional). Grading alone solves 80% of foundation water problems. Check the grade around the entire perimeter.

Downspout Extensions

Gutter downspouts should discharge water at least 4-6 feet from the foundation (10 feet is ideal). Options: rigid PVC extensions (buried underground), flexible corrugated pipe, splash blocks, or pop-up emitters connected to buried pipe. Cost: $10-$50 per downspout (DIY). One of the most impactful and affordable fixes. Many foundation issues are caused by short downspouts that dump water right at the foundation.

French Drain

A trench filled with gravel and perforated pipe that collects and redirects subsurface water. How: dig a trench (12-18 inches wide, 18-24 inches deep) with a slope (1% minimum — 1 inch of drop per 8 feet). Line with filter fabric. Add 2-3 inches of gravel. Lay perforated pipe (4-inch corrugated or rigid PVC, holes down). Fill with gravel to within 2-3 inches of the surface. Fold filter fabric over the gravel. Top with topsoil and grass. The pipe collects water and carries it to a discharge point (daylight outlet, dry well, or storm drain). Cost: $10-$15/linear foot (DIY), $25-$50/linear foot (professional). Typical installation: 50-100 linear feet ($500-$1,500 DIY, $1,250-$5,000 professional).

Dry Well

An underground chamber that collects water and lets it slowly percolate into the surrounding soil. Used where there is no natural outlet for a French drain. Types: gravel-filled pit (simple, cheaper) or prefabricated dry well chambers (more capacity, easier to install). Size: typically 3-4 feet in diameter, 3-4 feet deep. One dry well handles 50-75 linear feet of French drain or 1-2 downspouts. Cost: $200-$500 (DIY), $500-$1,500 (professional). Works best in well-draining soil (sandy, loamy). Clay soil drains slowly and may require a larger or deeper dry well.

Catch Basin

A box with a grate that collects surface water and channels it into a buried pipe system. Installed at low spots in the yard. Connected to buried pipe that carries water to a discharge point. Cost: $50-$150 each (basin + grate) + $5-$10/linear foot for buried pipe. Good for: specific low spots, driveway runoff, and patio drainage.