What size table saw do I need?

For most woodworkers, a 10-inch table saw is the standard choice. A 10-inch blade cuts up to 3.5 inches deep at 90 degrees, which handles any common lumber thickness. Within the 10-inch category, choose the type based on your needs: a portable jobsite saw ($250-$700) for occasional use, jobsite work, or limited shop space; a contractor saw ($600-$1,500) for a dedicated home workshop; a hybrid saw ($1,000-$2,000) for serious hobbyists wanting cabinet-saw features at a lower price; or a cabinet saw ($2,000-$5,000+) for professional woodworking and furniture making. The main differences between types are motor power, fence quality, dust collection, and mass (vibration dampening). Is a SawStop table saw worth it?

Is a SawStop table saw worth it?

For most woodworkers, yes. SawStop saws detect skin contact with the blade and stop it within 5 milliseconds, reducing a potential amputation to a small nick. Table saw injuries are the most common serious woodworking injury (over 30,000 ER visits per year in the US), and SawStop technology virtually eliminates the risk of amputation. SawStop saws cost $500-$1,500 more than comparable saws without flesh detection, and the brake cartridge costs $100 to replace after each activation. For hobbyists and professionals who value their hands, the investment is worthwhile. SawStop now makes saws in every category: jobsite ($900+), contractor ($1,800+), and cabinet ($3,000+). With the original SawStop patent expired, other manufacturers are developing similar systems, which will increase competition and lower prices. What is a riving knife on a table saw?

What is a riving knife on a table saw?

A riving knife is a curved metal fin mounted directly behind the saw blade that rises and falls with the blade. Its purpose is to prevent kickback, the most dangerous table saw event. Kickback occurs when the workpiece pinches the back of the blade, causing the blade to grab the workpiece and throw it back at the operator at high speed. The riving knife keeps the kerf (the slot cut by the blade) open behind the blade, preventing the workpiece from contacting the back teeth. Always use the riving knife — it is the single most important safety device on a table saw. Modern riving knives are designed to be left in place for almost all cuts (including dado cuts on some models). Never remove the riving knife to save time.

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Tools & Equipment

Table Saw Buying Guide: Types, Blade Size, Motor Power & Features Compared

Lumberama Editorial Team, Woodworking Tool & Equipment Specialists Feb 14, 2025 11 min read

Types of Table Saws

Portable/Jobsite saws: Lightweight (45-70 lbs), compact, designed for jobsite use. Folding or rolling stands. Direct-drive universal motors (15 amp, 120V). 10-inch blades. Small table surface and shorter fences. Price: $250-$
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Best for: contractors, jobsite work, DIYers with limited space. These saws are surprisingly capable for their size — a good jobsite saw can rip plywood, crosscut framing lumber, and handle most renovation tasks. Limitations: smaller rip capacity (typically 24-30 inches to the right of the blade), less powerful motors, and lighter-duty fence systems.

Contractor saws: Mid-size saws (200-300 lbs) with open bases (no enclosed cabinet). Belt-driven induction motors (1.5-2 HP, 120V or 240V). 10-inch blades. Larger table surface with extension wings. Price: $600-$1,
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Best for: home workshops, intermediate woodworkers. Contractor saws offer a significant step up from jobsite saws in power, accuracy, and rip capacity. The open base allows dust to scatter, so dust collection is less effective than cabinet saws.

Hybrid saws: A cross between contractor and cabinet saws. Enclosed cabinet base with a contractor-style motor (1.5-1.75 HP, 120V). Heavier than contractor saws (300-400 lbs) with better dust collection. Price: $1,000-$2,
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Best for: serious hobbyists and small professional shops. Hybrids offer many cabinet saw features (enclosed base, better dust collection, heavier mass for vibration dampening) at a lower price than full cabinet saws.

Cabinet saws: The gold standard. Heavy (400-800 lbs), fully enclosed cast-iron and steel cabinet base. Powerful induction motors (3-5 HP, 240V). Maximum rip capacity, precision fences, excellent dust collection. Price: $2,000-$5,000+. Best for: professional woodworkers, furniture makers, production shops. A cabinet saw is a lifetime investment. The mass dampens vibration, the powerful motor handles any material, and the precision fence ensures accurate cuts within 0.001 inch.

Blade Size

10-inch: The standard. Cuts up to 3.5 inches deep at 90 degrees (enough for any common lumber thickness). 10-inch blades are widely available in every tooth count and configuration. The overwhelming majority of table saws sold today are 10-inch.

8-inch: Found on some compact saws. Maximum cut depth around 2.5 inches. Fewer blade options available. Adequate for most trim and light woodworking but limiting for thicker stock.

12-inch: Found on some industrial saws. Maximum cut depth around 4 inches. Useful for cutting thick hardwood stock and full-depth ripping of 4x lumber. Heavier, more expensive, and louder than 10-inch saws.

Motor Power

1.5-2 HP (120V): Adequate for most hobby and light professional use. Handles ripping hardwoods up to 2 inches thick. May bog down in thick hardwood or dense materials.

3 HP (240V): The sweet spot for serious woodworking. Rips any common hardwood without hesitation. Requires a 240V circuit (20-amp dedicated circuit).

5 HP (240V): Professional/production capacity. Handles the most demanding ripping tasks. Requires a 240V/30-amp circuit.

Fence System

The rip fence is the most important accuracy component on a table saw. A good fence locks parallel to the blade and stays parallel under side pressure from the workpiece.

T-square style fence (Biesemeyer-style): The industry standard for accuracy. A heavy steel fence that locks with a single lever at the front rail. Once set, it stays parallel. Found on most mid-range and high-end saws. Aftermarket T-square fences ($200-$500) can dramatically upgrade a budget saw.

Safety Features

Blade guard and splitter/riving knife: Standard safety equipment. The riving knife is a thin fin mounted directly behind the blade that prevents the workpiece from pinching the blade and kicking back. Modern riving knives rise and fall with the blade. Always use the riving knife (kickback is the most dangerous table saw event).

Anti-kickback pawls: Small toothed fingers that allow the workpiece to move forward but dig in and stop backward movement (kickback).

Flesh-detection technology (SawStop): SawStop saws detect skin contact with the blade and stop the blade within 5 milliseconds, minimizing injury to a small nick instead of an amputation. The technology uses a small electrical signal in the blade that changes when it contacts skin (the body's electrical capacitance triggers the brake). The brake cartridge ($100) is destroyed with each activation but saves fingers. SawStop makes jobsite, contractor, and cabinet saws. Several other manufacturers are developing similar flesh-detection systems now that the original SawStop patent has expired.