How much does a skylight cost to install?

Fixed skylight (total installed): $800-$2,000. Venting skylight (total installed): $1,500-$3,500. Tubular skylight (total installed): $500-$1,000. The unit itself is typically $150-$1,500 depending on type and size. Installation labor: $500-$2,000 per skylight (includes cutting the roof opening, framing, flashing, and finishing). ENERGY STAR skylights qualify for a 30% federal tax credit (up to $600).

Modern skylights from quality manufacturers (Velux, Fakro) with proper installation and manufacturer flashing kits are very reliable. Most skylight leaks are caused by: improper flashing (the #1 cause), old or deteriorated seals (skylights 20+ years old), or ice dams (cold climates). If your skylight leaks: it is almost always a flashing issue, not a skylight defect. Re-flashing or replacing the skylight with proper flashing typically solves the problem.

Are skylights energy efficient?

Modern ENERGY STAR skylights with Low-E coating and double glazing are energy-efficient. They reduce the need for electric lighting (free natural light), and Low-E coatings reduce heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. Venting skylights provide natural ventilation (reducing AC usage). Net effect: a well-placed skylight can reduce energy costs. ENERGY STAR certification ensures the skylight meets efficiency standards for your climate zone.

What is a tubular skylight?

A tubular skylight (sun tunnel) is a small dome on the roof connected to a reflective tube that channels sunlight down to a diffuser in the ceiling. Diameter: 10-14 inches. The tube can be rigid or flexible, routing around attic obstacles. It provides surprising amounts of light (equivalent to several 100-watt bulbs on a sunny day). Best for: hallways, bathrooms, closets, and interior rooms where a traditional skylight is impractical. Cost: $500-$1,000 installed. Much less invasive than a full skylight.

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Home Improvement

Skylight Guide: Types, Installation & Energy Efficiency

Lumberama Editorial Team, Roofing & Natural Lighting Specialists Jun 10, 2026 13 min read

Skylight Types

Fixed Skylights

Does not open. Provides light only (no ventilation). The most affordable type. Best for: areas where ventilation is not needed (hallways, stairwells, living rooms). Least prone to leaks (no moving parts). $150-$500 (unit only).

Venting Skylights

Opens to allow fresh air circulation. Manual (crank or push-bar) or electric/solar powered (remote control or rain sensor). Excellent for: kitchens, bathrooms, and any room that benefits from ventilation. Hot air rises and exits through the skylight (natural stack-effect ventilation). $300-$1,500 (unit only).

Tubular Skylights (Sun Tunnels)

A small dome on the roof connected to a reflective tube that channels sunlight into the room below. The tube can be rigid (short, straight runs) or flexible (longer runs, can route around obstacles). Diffuser lens at the ceiling distributes light evenly. Excellent for: interior rooms, hallways, closets, and bathrooms where a traditional skylight cannot be installed. Much smaller roof penetration (10-14 inch diameter). $200-$500 (unit) + $200-$500 installation. Best for: adding natural light without the commitment of a full skylight.

Glazing Options

Tempered glass: Standard for most quality skylights. Impact-resistant (breaks into small granules instead of sharp shards). Required by code in most installations. Clear or tinted.

Laminated glass: Two layers of glass with a plastic interlayer. Holds together if broken (like a car windshield). Better impact resistance and security. Required in some hurricane zones.

Low-E coating: Reduces heat gain (summer) and heat loss (winter). Essential for energy efficiency. Blocks UV rays (protects furnishings from fading). Standard on quality skylights. Reduces cooling costs by 25-50% compared to clear glass.

Acrylic/polycarbonate: Plastic domes. Lighter and cheaper than glass. Scratches more easily. Yellows over time. Shorter lifespan. Common on budget skylights and tubular models. Being replaced by glass in most quality installations.

Energy Efficiency

Modern skylights are dramatically more energy-efficient than older models. Look for: ENERGY STAR certification, low-E coated glass, double or triple glazing, thermal break in the frame (separates interior and exterior metal to reduce condensation). ENERGY STAR skylights: U-factor of 0.55 or lower (northern zones) and SHGC of 0.30 or lower (southern zones). Tax credit: ENERGY STAR skylights qualify for the federal energy efficiency tax credit (30% of cost, up to $600).

Installation Considerations

Roof pitch: Skylights can be installed on nearly any roof pitch. Low-slope roofs (less than 3:12): use curb-mounted skylights (raised frame above the roof surface). Standard slope (3:12 to 20:12): deck-mounted (sits flush with the roof surface).

Flashing: Proper flashing is the #1 factor in preventing leaks. Use manufacturer's flashing kit (integrated step flashing designed for the specific skylight model). Do NOT rely on generic flashing or sealant alone. Most skylight leaks are flashing failures, not skylight failures.

Light shaft: If the ceiling is not directly under the roof (attic space between), a light shaft (also called a chase) is built from the roof opening to the ceiling opening. Splayed shafts (angled walls) distribute light over a wider area. Straight shafts are simpler to build.