What is a jigsaw best used for?

A jigsaw is best for cutting curves, circles, and irregular shapes in wood, plywood, and sheet materials. It's also the go-to tool for interior cutouts (like sink holes in countertops or electrical box openings) because the blade can plunge-cut from the middle of a panel. Common uses include cutting curves in furniture components, trimming door bottoms, making scroll cuts, cutting circles for speaker holes, and template cutting. Jigsaws also cut metal, plastic, and laminate with appropriate blade types. They work best in material up to 1 inch thick for precision cuts. What jigsaw blade should I use for wood?

What jigsaw blade should I use for wood?

For general wood cutting, use a T-shank blade with 6-10 teeth per inch (TPI). Lower TPI (6 TPI) cuts faster but rougher. Higher TPI (10-12 TPI) cuts slower but smoother. For splinter-free cuts on the top surface, use a reverse-tooth (downcut) blade or cut with the good side face down since standard blades splinter on the upstroke. For tight curves, use a narrow scrolling blade. For thick hardwood, use a longer blade with 6 TPI and higher orbital action setting. Bosch and Diablo make excellent jigsaw blade sets. Is a jigsaw good for beginners?

Is a jigsaw good for beginners?

Yes. The jigsaw is one of the easiest and safest power saws to learn. The blade is small, the saw is lightweight, and the cutting action is relatively gentle compared to circular saws or table saws. Beginners can make both curved and straight cuts with minimal practice. The main skill to develop is controlling blade speed (use variable speed) and understanding orbital action settings (lower settings for cleaner cuts, higher for faster rough cuts). A quality jigsaw costs $50-$150 and is one of the most versatile first power tools to own.

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Tools & Equipment

Jigsaw Buying Guide: Blade Action, Power & Best Uses

Lumberama Editorial Team, Power Tool & Workshop Equipment Specialists Apr 5, 2025 10 min read

What a Jigsaw Does

A jigsaw (also called a saber saw or bayonet saw) uses a thin, reciprocating blade to make curved cuts, straight cuts, plunge cuts (cutting from the middle of a panel without a starting hole), and scroll cuts (tight radius curves). It's the go-to power tool for any cut that isn't straight or that starts in the interior of a workpiece.

Common uses: Cutting curves and circles in wood, plywood, and MDF. Sink cutouts in laminate countertops. Cutting holes for electrical boxes. Trimming door bottoms. Cutting curves in sheet metal (with metal-cutting blades). Template cutting. Any cut that's too curved for a circular saw and too large for a scroll saw.

Limitations: Jigsaws are not the fastest cutting tool — for straight cuts, a circular saw is far faster. The thin blade can wander or deflect in thick material (over 1-1/2"), producing a cut that isn't square through the thickness. Jigsaws are best in material up to 1" thick for precision work and up to 1-1/2" for rougher cuts.

Key Features

Orbital action: The most important feature to understand. Standard jigsaw action is straight up-and-down (reciprocating). Orbital action adds a forward-and-back motion to the blade stroke — the blade swings forward into the cut on the upstroke and pulls back on the downstroke. This aggressive action cuts faster but leaves a rougher edge. Most quality jigsaws have adjustable orbital settings (0, I, II, III) so you can choose no orbital action for fine cuts and maximum orbital action for fast rough cuts.

Variable speed: Essential. Variable speed lets you match the blade speed to the material. Slow speeds for metal and hard materials. Fast speeds for wood. Most jigsaws use a variable-speed trigger (squeeze harder for faster speed) plus a speed-lock dial for sustained cutting at a set speed.

Tool-free blade change: Modern jigsaws have a lever or button that releases the blade without any tools. This is standard on all quality jigsaws now and makes frequent blade changes quick. If you're considering a jigsaw that requires a hex key for blade changes, spend a little more for tool-free.

Blade guide: A small roller or guide bearing behind the blade reduces blade deflection and keeps the cut square. Quality jigsaws use a roller bearing blade guide. Budget jigsaws may have a simple metal guide or none at all. A good blade guide improves cut accuracy significantly.

Dust blower: A small fan or air jet that blows sawdust off the cut line so you can see where you're cutting. Useful but not critical — some woodworkers disable it because it blows dust in their face. Some jigsaws include a dust port for shop vacuum connection.

Base plate bevel: The base plate (shoe) tilts for bevel cuts, typically 0-45 degrees. Most jigsaws include detents at 0° and 45°. Bevel cutting with a jigsaw is imprecise but useful for rough bevel cuts.

Corded vs Cordless

Corded jigsaws ($50-$200): More power (typically 6-7 amps), lighter weight, and no battery to charge. Best for heavy use and thick materials. The Bosch JS470E (7 amp, barrel grip) and Bosch JS572EBK (top handle) are considered the best corded jigsaws available.

Cordless jigsaws ($100-$300 with battery): Freedom of movement, no cord management, and sufficient power for most tasks. Modern 18V/20V cordless jigsaws from DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, and Bosch match corded performance for typical use. If you're already invested in a battery platform (DeWalt 20V MAX, Makita 18V LXT, Milwaukee M18), buy the jigsaw from the same platform to share batteries.

Blade Types

T-shank vs U-shank: T-shank blades have a tang shaped like a T that snaps into tool-free blade holders. U-shank blades have a U-shaped notch and are older style. T-shank is the modern standard — buy T-shank blades.

Wood-cutting blades: 6-10 TPI (teeth per inch). Larger teeth cut faster but rougher. Fine-tooth wood blades (10-12 TPI) produce smoother cuts. Standard wood blades cut on the upstroke, which means splintering occurs on the top surface of the workpiece. Cut with the "good" side face down, or use a reverse-tooth blade (cuts on the downstroke) for splinter-free top surfaces.

Metal-cutting blades: 14-24 TPI. Fine teeth for thin metal. Use slow speeds and orbital action set to 0 (no orbital) for metal.

Specialty blades: Flush-cut blades (blade extends past the front of the shoe for cutting against a wall). Carbide-tipped blades (for cement board, fiberglass, and abrasive materials). Scrolling blades (narrow for tight curves).