What It Is
Purpose: Horizontal moulding running around room perimeter. Originally protected walls from chair backs. Now primarily decorative (architectural detail). Divides wall into two sections (above and below). Creates opportunity for two-tone paint, wallpaper, or wainscoting.
Where to use: Dining rooms (most traditional). Hallways and entryways. Living rooms. Bedrooms. Bathrooms (above tile or beadboard). Stairways (follows stair angle).
Height
Standard rule: Chair rail height: 1/3 of wall height from floor. 8-foot ceiling: 32 inches from floor. 9-foot ceiling: 36 inches from floor. 10-foot ceiling: 40 inches from floor.
Practical range: 30-36 inches is the most common range. 32 inches works for most rooms. Match to existing window sill height (looks intentional). In dining rooms: height that aligns with chair back tops.
Stairways: Follow the stair slope at same height from each step. Measure up from each stair tread (same measurement). Creates parallel line to handrail. Requires angled cuts at landings and turns.
Exceptions: Higher rooms (10+ feet): can go higher (38-42 inches). Rooms with wainscoting: chair rail sits on top of wainscoting (typically 36-42 inches). Picture rail (different from chair rail): installed at 60-72 inches.
Moulding Profiles
Traditional: Ogee profile: S-curve with rounded top. Most classic dining room profile. Width: 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 inches.
Craftsman/farmhouse: Simple flat profile with slight bevel. Clean lines, minimal ornamentation. Width: 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches. Works with shaker and craftsman style homes.
Colonial: Multi-step profile with multiple curves. More ornate than ogee. Width: 3 to 4 inches. Suits formal rooms.
Modern: Simple rectangular or square profile. Minimal detail. Often paired with flat panel wainscoting. Width: 1-1/2 to 3 inches.
Materials: Solid wood (pine, poplar, oak): $1-$5/linear foot. MDF (most popular): $0.50-$3/linear foot. Primed and ready to paint. PVC/polyurethane: $2-$6/linear foot. Moisture-resistant (good for bathrooms). Plaster (historic homes): custom profiles available.
Installation
Tools: Miter saw (for cuts). Level (4 foot). Stud finder. Tape measure and pencil. Caulk gun. Nail gun (or hammer and finish nails).
Steps: Mark height line around room (use level). Find and mark stud locations. Cut moulding to length (butt joints at studs, cope or miter at corners). Apply construction adhesive to back. Nail into studs (finish nails, 2-inch). Inside corners: cope joint (one piece coped to fit against other). Outside corners: 45-degree miter joint. Fill nail holes with wood filler. Caulk top and bottom edges. Prime and paint.
Tips: Start on the wall opposite the entry door. Cope inside corners for tight fit (don't miter). Use scarf joints for long walls (45-degree overlap at stud). Pre-paint before installing (touch up after). Leave 1/16-inch expansion gap at ends (fill with caulk).
Cost and Design
Cost: Materials (MDF moulding): $0.50-$3/linear foot. Materials (wood moulding): $1-$5/linear foot. Professional installation: $3-$8/linear foot (labor + materials). Average room (50 linear feet): DIY: $50-$150 materials. Professional: $150-$400 installed.
Two-tone paint: Most popular chair rail design. Different colors above and below rail. Classic: darker below, lighter above. Modern: dramatic contrast (navy below, white above). Rule: rail itself matches the lower color or trim color.
With wainscoting: Chair rail caps wainscoting panels. Beadboard wainscoting: $5-$15/linear foot (with rail). Flat panel (shaker) wainscoting: $8-$20/linear foot. Board and batten: $5-$12/linear foot. Total height with wainscoting: 36-42 inches.
With wallpaper: Wallpaper below chair rail, paint above (or vice versa). Chair rail hides wallpaper edge cleanly. Allows bold pattern in lower third without overwhelming room.