What hand plane should I buy first?

A #5 jack plane is the most versatile starting point. It can rough-flatten, smooth, and joint edges for a beginning woodworker. Add a block plane second for end grain and small work.

Are vintage Stanley planes better than new ones?

Vintage Stanley Bailey planes (pre-1960s) are excellent when properly restored and tuned. New premium planes (Lie-Nielsen, Veritas) work perfectly out of the box with superior steel. New budget planes require significant tuning. All approaches can produce great results.

How do I flatten the sole of a hand plane?

Apply adhesive-backed sandpaper to a known-flat surface (like a granite surface plate or piece of thick glass). Place the plane on the sandpaper with the blade slightly retracted and push it back and forth. Check progress by marking the sole with a Sharpie — high spots will sand clean first.

Hand Tools

$10-$40 for vintage Stanley planes (flea markets), $30-$80 for new economy planes (Stanley, WoodRiver), $100-$200 for mid-range (WoodRiver, Bench Dog), $175-$400 for premium (Lie-Nielsen, Veritas), $300-$600+ for specialty planes.

The Complete Guide to Hand Planes (2026)

Reviewed by Lumberama's Tools & Equipment Team

|Last updated May 27, 2026

A hand plane is a woodworking tool that shaves thin layers of wood using a sharp blade (iron) set at an angle in a flat-soled body. The hand plane is the original surfacing tool — capable of flattening, smoothing, jointing, chamfering, and creating surfaces of extraordinary quality that no sandpaper can match. From rough stock preparation to glass-smooth finishing, hand planes remain essential for serious woodworkers.

Key Takeaways

A hand plane is a woodworking tool that shaves thin layers of wood using a sharp blade (iron) set at an angle in a flat-soled body.
The hand plane is the original surfacing tool — capable of flattening, smoothing, jointing, chamfering, and creating surfaces of extraordinary quality that no sandpaper can match.
From rough stock preparation to glass-smooth finishing, hand planes remain essential for serious woodworkers.
Hand planes are used for flattening boards (jack and jointer planes), smoothing surfaces to a glass-like finish (smoothing plane), jointing edges for glue-ups (jointer plane), chamfering and beveling edges, trimming end grain, fitting doors and drawers, creating rabbets and grooves (specialty planes), and removing mill marks for a hand-tool finish.
Sole flatness, blade steel quality (O1, A2, PM-V11), adjustable mouth opening, chipbreaker fit, lateral and depth adjustment mechanisms, comfortable tote and knob, weight (heavier for smoothing and jointing), frog adjustment, and overall build quality.

What It's Used For

Hand planes are used for flattening boards (jack and jointer planes), smoothing surfaces to a glass-like finish (smoothing plane), jointing edges for glue-ups (jointer plane), chamfering and beveling edges, trimming end grain, fitting doors and drawers, creating rabbets and grooves (specialty planes), and removing mill marks for a hand-tool finish.

Types & Variations

Block Plane (#60-1/2, low angle, one-handed), Smoothing Plane (#3, #4, finish surfacing), Jack Plane (#5, general purpose), Jointer Plane (#7, #8, edge jointing and flattening), Scrub Plane (aggressive stock removal), Shoulder Plane (trimming tenons), Rabbet Plane (cutting rabbets), Router Plane (leveling dados), and Spokeshave (curved surfaces).

Key Features to Look For

Sole flatness
blade steel quality (O1
A2
PM-V11)
adjustable mouth opening
chipbreaker fit
lateral and depth adjustment mechanisms
comfortable tote and knob
weight (heavier for smoothing and jointing)
frog adjustment
and overall build quality.

How to Use

1) Sharpen the blade to a razor edge using waterstones or oilstones. 2) Set the blade depth so only a thin shaving protrudes below the sole. 3) Adjust the mouth opening — tighter for finish work, wider for rough planing. 4) Place the workpiece on a flat surface and secure it. 5) Push the plane forward with even pressure on the front knob and rear tote. 6) Plane with the grain — the shavings should be continuous and translucent. 7) Check progress with a straightedge or winding sticks. 8) Adjust the lateral lever to ensure even cutting across the blade width.

⚠️ Safety Tips

Always set the plane down on its side when not in use to protect the blade and prevent it from sliding. Keep the blade razor-sharp — sharp planes are safer because they require less force. Never run your finger across the sole to check the blade projection — feel from the side. Secure the workpiece firmly to prevent it from moving during planing.

Maintenance

Sharpen the blade frequently — a sharp plane is a joy, a dull one is miserable. Keep the sole flat by periodically lapping on sandpaper on a known-flat surface. Oil bare metal surfaces to prevent rust. Store in a dry environment. Retract the blade when not in use. Wax the sole with paste wax for smooth gliding. Tune the chipbreaker to sit tightly against the blade.

Price Range & Recommendations

Price Range: $10-$40 for vintage Stanley planes (flea markets), $30-$80 for new economy planes (Stanley, WoodRiver), $100-$200 for mid-range (WoodRiver, Bench Dog), $175-$400 for premium (Lie-Nielsen, Veritas), $300-$600+ for specialty planes.

Beginners should start with a #5 jack plane — the WoodRiver #5 ($100) or a vintage Stanley #5 restored and tuned ($30-$60) are excellent entry points. Add a low-angle block plane for end grain and trim work. Pros will build a full set: Lie-Nielsen #4 smoother, #5-1/2 jack, and #7 jointer, plus a Veritas low-angle block plane. Each delivers unmatched performance for its task.