How often should I mow my lawn?

Often enough that you never remove more than 1/3 of the blade height. In peak growing season (spring and early fall for cool-season, summer for warm-season): once per week or every 5 days. During slower growth: every 10-14 days. The key is the 1/3 rule, not a fixed schedule. If your target height is 3 inches: mow when the grass reaches 4-4.5 inches. Cutting too short (scalping) stresses the grass, promotes weed growth, and exposes the soil to sunlight (which helps weed seeds germinate).

When should I fertilize my lawn?

Cool-season grass (Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass): the most important application is in fall (September-November). Optional: a lighter spring application (April-May). Do NOT fertilize cool-season grass in summer (it stresses the grass during heat dormancy). Warm-season grass (Bermuda, zoysia, St. Augustine): fertilize in late spring through mid-summer (April-August) when the grass is actively growing. Do NOT fertilize warm-season grass in fall or winter. For both: use slow-release fertilizer at 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per application. Total: 2-4 lbs N per 1,000 sq ft per year.

How much should I water my lawn?

1-1.5 inches per week total (including rainfall). Water deeply and infrequently: 1-2 times per week rather than every day. Each watering: apply 0.5-1 inch (run the sprinkler long enough to deliver this amount). Early morning is best (4-10 AM). Avoid evening watering (wet grass overnight promotes fungal disease). To measure: place a tuna can on the lawn and time how long it takes to collect 1 inch. Signs of underwatering: grass turns blue-gray, footprints remain visible (the grass does not spring back), and wilting. Most established lawns can survive 2-4 weeks without water by going dormant and recovering when rain returns.

How do I get rid of weeds in my lawn?

Prevention first: a thick, healthy lawn is the best weed defense. Mow high (3-4 inches for most grasses), fertilize properly, and overseed thin areas. Pre-emergent herbicide: apply in early spring (when soil temp reaches 55F) to prevent crabgrass and other annual weeds. Products: Dimension or Barricade. Post-emergent herbicide: for existing broadleaf weeds (dandelions, clover), apply a selective broadleaf herbicide (2,4-D based products like Weed B Gon). Best time: fall (weeds are actively absorbing nutrients before winter). For spot treatment: a pump sprayer targeting individual weeds. For widespread weeds: a broadcast application with a hose-end sprayer. Always follow label directions.

Article

Home Improvement

Lawn Care Guide: Mowing, Fertilizing, Watering & Weed Control

Lumberama Editorial Team, Lawn & Landscape Specialists Jul 24, 2026 14 min read

Grass Types

Cool-season grasses (thrive in northern climates, zones 3-6): Kentucky bluegrass (the most popular lawn grass, dense, dark green, self-repairing via rhizomes), tall fescue (drought-tolerant, low-maintenance, deep roots), perennial ryegrass (quick germination, fine texture, often used for overseeding), and fine fescue (shade-tolerant, low-maintenance, delicate texture).

Warm-season grasses (thrive in southern climates, zones 7-10): Bermuda grass (tough, drought-tolerant, aggressive, full sun), zoysia (dense, slow-growing, good in transition zone), St. Augustine (shade-tolerant, thick blades, popular in Gulf states), and centipede (low-maintenance, slow-growing, acidic soil).

Transition zone (zones 6-7): The hardest zone for lawns — too hot for cool-season and too cold for warm-season. Best options: tall fescue, zoysia, or a mix.

Mowing

The single most important lawn care practice. Rules: never cut more than 1/3 of the blade height at once (cutting too short stresses the grass). Mow at the right height: Kentucky bluegrass 2.5-3.5 inches, tall fescue 3-4 inches, Bermuda 1-2 inches, zoysia 1-2 inches. Taller grass shades the soil (reducing weed germination and water evaporation). Mow when the grass is dry. Keep blades sharp (dull blades tear grass, creating brown tips and disease entry points). Frequency: mow often enough that you never remove more than 1/3. In peak growing season: weekly or twice weekly. Leave clippings on the lawn (grasscycling) — they decompose and return nutrients (equivalent to one fertilizer application per year).

Fertilizing

Grass needs nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Nitrogen is the most important for green, dense growth. Cool-season lawns: fertilize in fall (September-November, the most important application), and optionally in spring (April-May). Do NOT fertilize in summer (stresses cool-season grass in heat). Warm-season lawns: fertilize in late spring through summer (April-August). Do NOT fertilize in fall or winter (the grass is going dormant). Application rate: 1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per application. Total annual: 2-4 lbs N per 1,000 sq ft. Use a slow-release fertilizer (feeds gradually over 6-8 weeks). Apply with a broadcast spreader for even coverage. Water in after applying.

Watering

Most lawns need 1-1.5 inches of water per week (including rainfall). Water deeply and infrequently (1-2 times per week) rather than lightly every day. Deep watering encourages deep roots. Light frequent watering creates shallow roots (the grass becomes drought-dependent). Water in the early morning (4-10 AM) — less evaporation and the grass dries before evening (reducing disease). How to measure: place a tuna can or rain gauge on the lawn and run the sprinkler until it collects 1 inch. Note the time — that is how long to water each session.

Weed Control

Pre-emergent: Applied before weeds germinate. Prevents crabgrass, foxtail, and other annual weeds. Apply in early spring when soil temperature reaches 55F (when forsythia blooms). Products: Dimension (dithiopyr), Barricade (prodiamine).

Post-emergent: Kills weeds that are already growing. Broadleaf weeds (dandelions, clover, chickweed): use a selective broadleaf herbicide (2,4-D, dicamba, MCPP). Grassy weeds (crabgrass already up): quinclorac-based products.

Best defense: A thick, healthy lawn is the best weed preventer. Dense grass crowds out weeds. Mow high, fertilize properly, and overseed thin areas.

Aeration and Overseeding

Aeration: removes small plugs of soil from the lawn, relieving compaction and allowing air, water, and nutrients to reach the root zone. Best time: fall for cool-season, late spring for warm-season. Rent a core aerator ($50-$80/day) or hire a service ($75-$200). Overseed: spread grass seed over the existing lawn to thicken thin or bare areas. Best combined with aeration (seeds fall into the holes and have excellent soil contact). Fall is the best time for cool-season overseeding.