How-To Guide
Building a Fence
From post setting to panel installation, learn how to build a sturdy, attractive fence that lasts.
A well-built fence provides privacy, security, and aesthetic appeal. Proper planning and installation ensure your fence will last for decades with minimal maintenance.
Planning Your Fence
Step 1
Check Property Lines & Regulations
- Survey property lines - hire a surveyor if boundaries are unclear
- Check local building codes for height restrictions (often 6' max)
- Review HOA rules and architectural guidelines
- Obtain necessary building permits before starting
- Call 811 (free utility locating service) at least 2-3 days before digging
- Talk to neighbors about shared property lines and fence plans
Step 2
Plan Your Layout
- Mark fence line with stakes and string line
- Determine post spacing (typically 6-8 feet on center)
- Plan gate locations and widths (3-4' pedestrian, 10-12' vehicle)
- Account for terrain changes and slopes
- Measure and mark exact post locations
- Calculate total linear feet and materials needed
Setting Posts (The Foundation)
Posts are the most critical component. Properly set posts ensure your fence stays straight and strong for decades.
1
Dig Post Holes
- Dig holes 1/3 the post height above ground (minimum 24" deep)
- Add 6 inches deeper in cold climates (below frost line)
- Holes should be 3 times the post width (12" diameter for 4×4 posts)
- Use post hole digger or power auger for efficiency
- Flare bottom of hole slightly for better stability
2
Set Posts in Concrete
- Add 6 inches of gravel at bottom for drainage
- Place post and check for plumb with 4-foot level
- Brace post in position with temporary supports
- Mix and pour concrete (fast-setting or standard)
- Slope top of concrete away from post to shed water
- Keep post braced until concrete fully cures (24-48 hours)
3
Trim Posts to Height
- Let concrete cure before cutting posts
- Use string line between corner posts to mark height
- Mark each post with level and square
- Cut with circular saw or reciprocating saw
- Pitch top of post at slight angle or add post caps
- Seal cut ends with wood preservative
Rails, Pickets & Gates
Step 4
Install Rails (Stringers)
- Attach top rail between posts (flush with top or inset)
- Install bottom rail 4-6 inches off ground (prevents rot)
- Add middle rail for panels over 5 feet tall
- Use galvanized or coated deck screws (3-inch minimum)
- Toe-screw rails into posts or use metal brackets
- Ensure rails are level along entire fence line
Step 5
Attach Pickets or Boards
- Start at a gate post or corner for best appearance
- Use spacer for consistent gaps (typically ½-inch)
- Keep boards level and plumb with each installation
- Attach with 2 screws per rail intersection
- Alternate board crowns (bow) for flat appearance
- Leave 2-4 inch gap at bottom for air circulation and weed trimming
Step 6
Install Gates
- Build gate frame square and sturdy (use diagonal brace)
- Use heavy-duty T-strap hinges (minimum 2, use 3 for tall gates)
- Install gate latch or lock hardware
- Ensure 1/2-inch clearance on all sides for swing
- Hang gate with hinge pins pointing up (prevents removal)
- Add gate spring or closer if desired
Wood Material Choices
Select the right wood species based on budget, durability needs, and aesthetic preferences.
Pressure-Treated Pine
Lifespan: 15-20 years
Pros:
- Most affordable option
- Widely available
- Rot and insect resistant
- Can be painted or stained
Cons:
- Can warp or twist as it dries
- Chemical treatment (wear gloves)
- Requires annual maintenance
- Green color fades over time
Western Red Cedar
Lifespan: 20-30 years
Pros:
- Naturally rot and insect resistant
- Beautiful grain and color
- Lightweight and easy to work
- Aromatic scent
Cons:
- More expensive than PT pine
- Requires regular sealing/staining
- Softer wood (dents easier)
- Color fades to gray without treatment
Redwood
Lifespan: 25-30 years
Pros:
- Premium appearance
- Excellent natural durability
- Minimal shrinkage and warping
- Stable in various climates
Cons:
- Most expensive wood option
- Limited availability in some regions
- Still needs finishing for color retention
- Heartwood required for ground contact
Professional Tips
Set corner and end posts first, then run string line for perfectly aligned intermediate posts
Use 4×4 posts for standard fences up to 6' tall, 6×6 for taller fences or heavy gates
Pitch top of posts at slight angle or add caps to shed water and prevent rot
Apply wood sealer or preservative to all cut ends before installation
Face "good" side of fence toward neighbors (or alternate for both sides finished)
Reapply stain or sealer every 2-3 years to maintain appearance and protection
Use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners (regular screws will rust)
Install fence boards vertical grain out (more weather resistant than flat grain)
Tools & Materials Needed
Tools
- Post hole digger or power auger
- 4-foot level and string line
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Cordless drill/driver
- Tape measure and framing square
- Wheelbarrow for mixing concrete
- Safety glasses and work gloves
Materials
- Fence posts (4×4 or 6×6, PT lumber)
- Rails/stringers (2×4 or 2×6)
- Fence boards or pickets
- Concrete mix (fast-setting or standard)
- Gravel for drainage
- Galvanized or stainless steel screws (3")
- Gate hardware (hinges, latch)
- Post caps and wood sealer/stain
Construction Process
1
Dig Post Holes
- Dig holes 1/3 the post height above ground (minimum 24" deep)
- Add 6 inches deeper in cold climates (below frost line)
- Holes should be 3 times the post width (12" diameter for 4×4 posts)
- Use post hole digger or power auger for efficiency
- Flare bottom of hole slightly for better stability
2
Set Posts in Concrete
- Add 6 inches of gravel at bottom for drainage
- Place post and check for plumb with 4-foot level
- Brace post in position with temporary supports
- Mix and pour concrete (fast-setting or standard)
- Slope top of concrete away from post to shed water
- Keep post braced until concrete fully cures (24-48 hours)
3
Trim Posts to Height
- Let concrete cure before cutting posts
- Use string line between corner posts to mark height
- Mark each post with level and square
- Cut with circular saw or reciprocating saw
- Pitch top of post at slight angle or add post caps
- Seal cut ends with wood preservative
4
Install Rails (Stringers)
- Attach top rail between posts (flush with top or inset)
- Install bottom rail 4-6 inches off ground (prevents rot)
- Add middle rail for panels over 5 feet tall
- Use galvanized or coated deck screws (3-inch minimum)
- Toe-screw rails into posts or use metal brackets
- Ensure rails are level along entire fence line
5
Attach Pickets or Boards
- Start at a gate post or corner for best appearance
- Use spacer for consistent gaps (typically ½-inch)
- Keep boards level and plumb with each installation
- Attach with 2 screws per rail intersection
- Alternate board crowns (bow) for flat appearance
- Leave 2-4 inch gap at bottom for air circulation and weed trimming
6
Install Gates
- Build gate frame square and sturdy (use diagonal brace)
- Use heavy-duty T-strap hinges (minimum 2, use 3 for tall gates)
- Install gate latch or lock hardware
- Ensure 1/2-inch clearance on all sides for swing
- Hang gate with hinge pins pointing up (prevents removal)
- Add gate spring or closer if desired